# Sticky  Happy Dog Training, so it begins



## LiMarChis (Mar 29, 2010)

Some thoughts and suggestions on helping your puppy develop into a happy, confident little dog. These are things that we have learned over the years, from various sources, to socialize and train our puppies. I will include things that we do from 5 weeks old forward. While hopefully new puppies aren't placed into their homes until 12 weeks (and the breeder has done these things), some get their puppies sooner AND these things benefit the puppy regardless of age started.

Puppies need to be introduced to many different things, areas, noises, surfaces, etc. They should learn the feel of carpet, tile, linoleum, rubber matting, concrete, wood, and grass. We get samples from Lowe's to put down in the puppy area for exposure to most of these types of flooring. As they run and play over the different textures, they learn there's nothing to fear. A designated grass area for them to romp in the grass, safely away from other dogs and anything they may be carrying. This should be in your own yard, not a public place. 

Feeding - We use various containers and rooms. Stainless steel, ceramic, plastic, a plate, a paper plate, different sized bowls, etc. and move the location of meals from crate, kitchen, bathroom, living room, bed room, etc. so they do not become dependent upon one serving dish in a single location. This makes for picky eaters.

Noise - vaccum cleaner, TV, radio, thunder storms, fireworks, furniture falls over, people yell (football anyone?), sirens going by, all contribute to a noisy household. We do not isolate pups from any noises and play CDs with as many sounds as possible starting by about 6 weeks of age. A few minutes a day. They continue playing and going on about their day undeterred by noises. It's not scary.

Alone time - Every puppy must learn to settle themselves alone, without their mom or littermates. Littermates are mixed and matched so no one pup becomes dependent upon another. Puppies need time by themselves to destress and learn that nothing bad is going to happen to them just because they are by themselves. If they are coming into a multiple dog household, this is extremely important. Also, they should not be paired with another pet for security. If they become dependent upon another dog for their comfort, in the event they are seperated, this causes undo stress and anxiety. They should be confident and secure in the world around them, without relying on someone or something else.

Play area - should include all types of toys, climbing surfaces, tunnels, etc. Cat cubes and tunnels are inexpensive and build confidence in pups. Once they learn to go in and come out the other end, it's a grand game. We use cardboard boxes of various heights and widths for them to climb and jump on/off. We also put a small board between two boxes for them to walk on, jump over, slide under, etc. When playing tug games, they win every time. 

Absolutely every experience should be a positive one. If there is any doubt about an interaction, it doesn't happen until after the puppy is 5 months old. Due to critical imprinting fear periods, any negative experience before then can cause lifelong temperment issues. We use x-pens to seperate pups so that they can play/fence fight with each other but each puppy always "wins" the game. When we take them out, if we see another dog, they are in our arms, not the ground. Children are not allowed to hold them. They are allowed to sit on the floor, put their hands out, palm up, and the puppy can come to them for scratching under their chin - NEVER OVER THE HEAD - and puppy licks. It only takes one bad experience with a child to make a Chi puppy hate children for 15+ years. That said, I try to introduce the pups to well behaved children, older people, teens, handicapped people, people of shade, things I can't reproduce. At home, I wear floppy hats, bangle bracelets, billowing skirts, high heals, flip flops, etc. to expose them to these new sillouettes and sounds. 

Puppies spend the majority of time on the floor. They learn that the world around them is much bigger than them, but it's OK. I feed a lot of kibble or treats from my hand to their mouth. They learn to look to me for all things good. I do not pick them up every time I see them or they want it. They are so excited to see me, run up my leg, etc., and they never know when they are getting picked up. It's not automatic and when it happens (I alternate, sometimes back to back, sometimes skip 2 entrances, then up once, then not, etc.) they are estatic. Same with visitors. I don't let company pick them up. I will hand them the puppy if they know how to hold them. I control every interaction and it's always positive. The pups turn into people junkies. They run to meet everyone new, playing with them, anxious for pets, and picking them up is the biggest reward they could ever get. New people do not equal scary things.

Collars and leashes are introduced after 5 months of age. I personally don't like collars/harnesses left on at all times. For show dogs, they break the coat. For pets running lose in the house, they are a safety hazard. They should only be used for walks. That said, the pups are given a collar and allowed to wear it for minutes at a time over the course of a week or two, each time longer, till they ignore it. Then the lead is attached, same thing. We go in the yard, attach the lead, and we follow the puppy around the yard. They never feel the lead...as I am with them every step. Then I allow them to get to end and tug me slightly...they feel the lead but it doesn't choke or hurt them. Again, I'm following the pups lead. After about a week of them, they will change directions with a call or encouraging words, and the pup is walking with me. Takes about 3 weeks and the pup is walking with me always, in front, tail up and happy. I never drag a puppy and if the tail ever goes down, we regroup til the tail goes up and end on a happy note and start over the next day. Going on walks should be a happy time between dog and owner, not a trial for either party.

I think the most important thing to remember in raising a confident puppy is that all life experiences should be positive, for me, the first 6 months of their life. It's our job to ensure that happens. If negative experiences happen at vital times in their development, it affects them all their life.

Off to spend time with the furkids. More as I have time to write.


----------



## Aquarius (May 8, 2009)

Great thread - Lisa, I am going to close and sticky this - let us know when you want it opened again to add to and we will open it - that way it can be a very useful thread for training tips, and not get too long with comments- I will also open a companion thread for comments! http://www.chihuahua-people.com/showthread.php?t=51686

Thanks


----------



## butterflyH (Nov 9, 2012)

Remember that your dog performs its task voluntarily so always, always provide leadership by praising the dog when she has completed her job.


----------



## prettylola (Nov 13, 2012)

Well if we want to train our dog in a good way, we have to make him confident about things. If he feels any fear from anything, we should try to remove their fear and make him fearless. This is best way to train a dog.


----------



## butterflyH (Nov 9, 2012)

Dog training is the process of modifying the behavior of a dog, either for it to assist in specific activities or undertake particular tasks, or for it to participate effectively in contemporary domestic life. While training dogs for specific roles dates back to Roman times at least, the training of dogs to be compatible household pets developed with substantiation in the 1950s.


----------



## susieQ (Jan 24, 2014)

Thanks for the suggestions on training. I think that your insight is fantastic!


----------



## Libsy (Oct 18, 2014)

*Thank you*

Thanks for such a lovely piece. I agree that everything should be positive and done with love.


----------

